2012年1月28日 星期六

★ 這值得紀念的日子 - 豬肝連﹐ 買了一頭有機豬﹗


我的地下室冷凍櫃最近新加入了一頭有機豬﹐ 它來自附近的有機農場﹕http://www.wagonwheelranch.org/pork.htm
之前我有提過﹐ 它的豬是放養的﹐ 曾因為跑得太快被我誤認為狗...
 
這次﹐ 我特地跟老闆Brian混熟了﹐ 然後拜託他把一些美國人避之唯恐不及的部位留給我﹐ 老闆答應了﹐ 所以上週六過農曆年Party前我特地去把我的豬載回來。除了一般吃的各部位﹐ 還買到了豬舌﹐ 豬心﹐ 豬耳﹐ 豬臉頰﹐ 豬肝﹐ 豬蹄﹐ 豬子宮﹐ 還有豬肝連﹗

我其實也很喜歡豬肚和豬腸﹐ 但是很怕清理它們﹐ 臭翻天了﹗﹗﹗


還有﹐ 各位知道﹐ 粉腸和小腸有什麼不同嗎﹖ 粉腸是豬小腸的一部分,肉商會把比較小的﹐ 卷成一團的腸子前後綁起來,避免腸子裡面粉粉的東西流出來,小吃攤的人把它煮熟後就是好吃的粉腸,小腸就是把旁邊的脂肪、腸繫膜等剝一剝就變成直直的小腸了。嗯啊﹐ 粉腸裡面粉粉的好吃的那個白白的就是豬吃進去的食物...... 


至於生腸或脆腸, 其實就是豬子宮的部位﹐ 網路上有很多人說是輸卵管﹐ 那是不對的。我的論文就是豬的生殖系統研究﹐ 所以很清楚輸卵管才沒那麼大勒﹐ 豬的子宮是管狀的﹐ 像腸子那樣﹐ 所以小豬才可以一隻一隻的在管子裡排隊﹐ 母豬才可以一次生十幾隻小豬﹐ 當然啦﹐ 我們平常吃的生腸是‘處女豬’的子宮﹐ 生過小豬的豬母子宮會變大...


嗯﹐ 有點離題了﹐ 其實我要子宮不是用來吃的﹐ 是希望買到的是母豬﹐ 不是公豬﹐ 原因很簡單﹐ 就像人類一樣﹐ 公的大部份都蠻臭的﹐ 如果你是男的﹐ 不要生氣﹐ 你是那剩下的’小部份‘﹐ 不過公豬的味道對我來說雖然臭﹐ 但是對母豬來說卻是願意以身相許的費洛蒙的味道﹐ 咦﹐ 怎麼又離題了....

豬肝連﹐ 是我在美國市場從來沒有見過的﹐ 所以特地上網把照片印出來﹐ 交給Brian, Brian再交給屠宰場的屠夫﹐ 可是這屠夫說﹐ 他只是個殺豬的﹐ 他不是外科醫生..... 我沒辦法﹐ 只好跟他說﹐ 那就把豬肺和豬肝整個連在一起不要切開給我吧﹗ 知道嗎﹖ 豬肝連其實就是橫膈膜﹐ 也就是把胸腔和腹腔分開的一圈體膜﹐ 最外圈是肌肉﹐ 就是肝連肉。

那位屠夫也很阿沙力﹐ 非常’幫忙'的把全部﹐ 整副內臟完全原封不動的劃下來﹐ 立刻冷凍﹐ 然後就把整個紙箱交給我了﹗ 我把那又重又沉的紙箱扛回家﹐ 把整隻豬的內臟冷凍硬塊放進水槽慢慢解凍﹐ 還好我有無比大的商業水槽﹐ 不然那裡裝得下﹐ 但是我的整個廚房那層樓都快臭死了﹗ 那股內臟腥味.....唉﹐ 熏得我腦袋不清楚﹐ 啥屁也沒照.....
這裡有張很清楚的照片﹐ 看看偉大的橫膈膜的長相吧﹗
http://tw.myblog.yahoo.com/jw!EEo1WNOAG0R1nQvdxVw-/article?mid=6215  


這陀內臟冰塊﹐ 整整退了一天的冰﹐ 然後我就開始浩大的過程﹐ 把大腸﹐ 小腸﹐ 胰臟﹐ 肺臟﹐ 胃﹐ 等等丟掉﹐ 把豬心﹐ 肝﹐ 腎﹐ 肝連﹐ 舌﹐ 蹄﹐ 耳﹐ 留下了﹐ 臉頰肉已經被分開和其它豬肉部份分成小包真空冷凍了﹐ 對了﹐ 其它豬肉部份這個肉商都已經替我處理好了﹐ 把前腿﹐ 後腿﹐ 五花﹐ 里脊﹐ 排骨等全部先切成較小塊﹐ 其餘部位全部弄成絞肉﹐ 全部分裝真空冷凍並標示好了。下次有經驗了﹐ 我要叫這屠夫不要把內臟冷凍﹐ 冷藏就好﹗ 然後我去拿的時候馬上就可以只取要的部位﹐ 其它就不帶回家了。雖然辛苦﹐ 但是這樣買整隻有機豬很划算﹐ 而且他的豬我很放心﹐ 再說﹐ 我這樣忙了一次﹐ 下次可能要半年以後了﹐ 可以吃好久﹗

好啦﹐ 最重要的就是﹐ 今年的年夜飯party有豬肝連吃魯﹗﹗ 客人個個瞪大了眼睛﹐ 筷子一雙雙飛來飛去﹐ 不到2分鐘那盤就清乾淨了﹗

做法就如同台灣路邊攤一樣﹐ 用水煮個20-30分鐘讓肉軟爛之後﹐ 切片撒薑絲沾醬油膏嘍﹗ 超懷念超好吃的﹗﹗﹗

煮前﹕
 
 煮後﹕

 

------------------------------ 其他中式小吃 ----------------------------------

油飯來了 Toshiba 壓力 IH 電鍋蔡季芳老師的四川鮮肉鍋魁﹐ 打敗宜蘭蔥餅和蔥油餅高麗菜豬肉水煎包
自製臘味蘿蔔糕﹐ 好用的不沾平底鍋外婆牌的家鄉魯味豆腐丸子﹐ 道地湖北家鄉菜
自製麵條﹐ 台南度小月辣味肉燥擔仔麵香菇肉絲自製手工拉麵﹐ 酸菜肉絲麵茅茅牌臺式燜炒米粉
蛋餅
茅茅牌香麻辣椒醬



49 則留言:

  1. 我比較佩服的是地下室冷凍櫃&商用大水槽...
    然後買一整頭豬也是超~厲害的!!!
    很難想像在台灣隨手可得的美味在美國卻是阿豆仔避之唯恐不及的東西
    我這兩天做了你教的佛卡夏,很好吃~
    但是我的作法跟你傳授的可能大不相同
    那一大坨軟軟黏黏的麵團我怎麼疊還是又濕又軟
    雖然最後是讓我用刮板給疊出一團來
    但也累了,所以直接進冰箱冷藏睡到今天早上才烤
    也不知道烤得對不對,但是小朋友很捧場哩~
    然後阿~最近看了好多歐包的文
    有點後悔沒加碼買蒸氣烤箱
    所以,我接下來的目標是要賺一台蒸氣烤箱回來~:P

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    1. 我的下一台烤箱就是要有蒸氣的﹐ ﹕P
      歐包真是另外一個大領域﹐ 跟我們吃慣的麵包是完全不同的食物﹐ 那軟軟黏黏的麵團就是最後好吃的原因﹐ 你用手也好﹐ 刮刀也好﹐ 只要用最少量的麵粉﹐ 讓麵團不黏於麵板﹑﹑手﹑刮刀﹑然後又可以折疊成團﹐ 你就成功啦﹗﹗ 而且冷藏發酵更有風味耶﹗ 加油﹗
      再想想還有什麼要我買的﹐ 不要客氣﹗

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  2. XD 看到茅茅说跑太快被你误认为狗的猪~
    忍不笑了~~ ^+++^
    真可爱~

    嗯!嗯!公猪的味道真的让人不敢恭唯
    (以前在英国吃的猪肉味道都粉重一下)
    听说这里猪农都要先阉了公猪去除味道

    下午刚看了短片关于掺了瘦肉精的猪肉..
    真令人心寒
    还是买有机猪好,吃起来也比较安心 :)

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    1. 你也了解厚﹗ 我以前自己有養過豬﹐ 其實有些公豬很‘強’﹐ 如果閹的時間太晚﹐﹐ 即使閹了﹐ 還是有味道﹐ 所以﹐ 我不要冒險.... ﹕P

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  3. 我聽聞原文的歐包食譜會比國內的各家作者的還要仔細還要好?
    要不是英文實在都快還給老師去了
    不然還真想請你推薦並代購一本妳覺得不錯的歐包食譜回來研究
    我後來用刮刀是因為用刮刀他就不用灑粉也不會黏
    然後我看有些人手沾一點水也可以摺疊
    只是..我還不知道該摺疊到哪種程度算OK

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    1. 其實我覺得不論是中文還是英文都差不多﹐ 還是比不過親眼看到手法和製作過程。其實這個‘會黏’就像酵母會發酵一樣﹐ 是一定會發生的﹐ 重點是怎麼讓自己找到一種讓自己能成功的折疊麵團的方法就對了﹐ 像你用刮刀﹐ 或有人沾水﹑ 撒粉﹐只要可以成功折疊﹐ 就用那方法就對了。
      至於折疊到那種程度﹐ 真的要看做那種麵包﹐ 想要成品有那種筋度﹐ 如果是免揉麵包﹐ 那前後左右各一次他們就覺得夠了﹐ 有些歐包每隔半小時一小時就折疊一次﹐ 折個3﹐4次﹐ 有些歐包完全不折﹐ 軟趴趴用倒的﹐ 最後吃起來也很棒﹐ 我之前做了不少作業麵包後就發現﹐ ‘歐包’真是沒啥標準可言﹐ 全看個人喜好﹐ 你就可以做出你兔小鋪特有的歐包啊﹗

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  4. 我看中文的食譜都是...
    全部材料一起入剛打至擴展階段
    一句話交代很多步驟...= ="
    也還沒找到比較值得收藏的歐包食譜
    因為手邊的食譜自覺清一色都是改良過的"台式歐包"
    哈哈...XD

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    1. 我的作業麵包用的歐包食譜都是大家蠻推崇的‘聖經’類的食譜﹐ 不過都是英文的就是了。

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  5. 很多聖經食譜都是原文書...
    倒是很想買來收藏
    要不要推薦一本順便幫我買呢~:P

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    1. 這本應該算是很經典的
      http://www.amazon.com/Bread-Bakers-Apprentice-Mastering-Extraordinary/dp/1580082688/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1328024432&sr=8-7
      不過說實在的﹐ 自從接觸到免揉麵包之後﹐ 比較喜歡這本
      http://www.amazon.com/My-Bread-Revolutionary-No-Work-No-Knead/dp/0393066304/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1328024534&sr=1-1
      免揉麵包是近年來才發生的麵包革命的產物﹐ 連第一本的作者都對免揉麵包推崇有加。
      我還有其它5﹑6本都很不錯﹐ 像這本﹕
      http://www.amazon.com/Bread-Bakers-Book-Techniques-Recipes/dp/0471168572/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1328024432&sr=8-1
      不過老實說﹐ 我還是最喜歡台灣的甜麵包類﹐ 歐包是完全另一種食物 ﹕)就好像起司一樣﹐ 很多人都沒法接受。
      你自己決定看要不要吧﹐ ﹕)

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  6. 嗚...因為不能複製網址
    打了半天還是給他打錯...>"<
    可以請你把連結寄到amigo0012002@hotmail.com 嗎~
    我家大人們比較喜歡歐式的麵包
    所以我才有動力想要研究看看~^^

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  7. 晚安茅茅;

    看完這文章後做了一個結論,

    下次精算先生有機會往北調職的話我會答應了,

    因為可以離妳近一點作鄰居,

    和妳在一起可以看到好多新奇事物。

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    1. 哈哈﹐ 搞不好你還沒來我就先往南搬了 ﹕P

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  8. 突然覺得...應該跟妳分享我學到的保師傅的滷豬錦!會讓妳變成豬內臟料理達人!!!

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    1. 我去看了﹐ 怎麼那麼好吃的樣子﹗ 請趕快教我啦﹗ XD

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  9. 感謝妳!!!
    我想訂第一本ㄝ~
    感覺非常豐富
    台灣的翻譯食譜(如果有翻譯的話)價格都是原文書的2倍哩!!!
    免揉得要鑄鐵鍋...我沒有...>"<

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    1. 好﹐ 去買了﹗
      其實沒有LC的鐵鑄鍋﹐ 就看看有沒有普通牌子的﹐ 只要是材質對﹐ 有重蓋子就可以。

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  10. 我要是哪天扛了一整頭豬回家~
    我家宅爸可能會罵我瘋了...

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    1. 哈哈哈﹐ 我還叫老公跟我去扛勒﹐ 不過看到的不是一頭豬的形狀﹐ 而是一包一包冷凍真空包裝的豬肉裝在紙箱裡﹐ 所以他沒露出要休妻的樣子﹗ ﹕P

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  11. Hi茅茅,

    It's a lot fun reading this post. Just out of curiosity - is the
    Berkshires pork less 臭 than the regular pork that we purchased
    in the grocery stores? Does it taste similar to the "black hair
    pig" in Taiwan? I live in Gaithersburg, not too far from Mount
    Airy. You inspired me to purchase things from that ranch. Also,
    do they sell fresh chickens? I am sick and tired of the chickens
    sold in the grocery stores ...

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    1. wowser!
      great to hear from my neighbor here!
      in regard to your questions, i feel the pork is very delicious but i honest doesn't feel the regular pork is stinkier. Either do i feel the berkshire is more delicious. they are the same to my tastebuds :P They do have a huge population of broilers and laying hens. If you want fresh ones, simply be there when they butcher the chickens I think. You can call them up to know when. Brian will be happy to help you. again, i can't tell the difference between his chickens and the ones from costco but some of my friends swear by them. Please do mention my name Jean so that he knows I AM helping spreading the words for him :)
      Great to know you Edith!

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  12. Unfortunately, I always smell odor earlier than anybody around
    me, not a great gift! I've heard people saying good things about
    berkshire and was wondering if it is less stinky. I guess I will
    just have to try it myself because I am more sensitive to bad
    smell :(

    I plan to visit the branch in April. I will definitely mention
    your name when I see Brian.

    Last but not least, it's great to know someone who is
    enthusiastic about cooking and baking lives in the same area. I
    am sure I will learn a lot from you in the future! :)

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    1. 我其實也是有異於常人的嗅覺及味覺﹐ 你吃的出來costco賣的肉有味道嗎﹖ 一般肉豬在出生內一周就閹了﹐ 應該沒有味道了。我吃不出來。如果你也吃不出﹐ 那表示有可能brian的肉真的沒味道。畢竟berkshire不比一般肉豬﹐ 肉質好﹐ 多供應高級餐廳。
      我們可以互相交換意見還有學習喔﹗

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  13. 你真的買一頭豬回來了
    真的是大工事
    光要想到要處理
    就一個頭兩個大
    你還逐是逐個部份切開分裝冷凍
    想必那個營業用的冷凍庫的容量
    是十分驚人的

    那個生腸
    我也以為是輸卵管
    原來是子宮
    你是讀農畜系的嗎
    第一次聽說論文是寫豬的生殖系統

    不過最近台灣瘦肉精新聞炒得很兇
    美國因為不吃內臟
    所以許可使用瘦肉精
    但是瘦肉精
    是會殘留在內臟裡
    這一點需要注意

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    1. 其實brian 已經幫我把部份切開真空分裝冷凍好了﹐ 只有內臟他沒處理啦 ﹕) 其實把一頭豬去掉頭﹐ 皮﹐ 脂肪﹐ 大骨等就沒有太大了也﹐ 沒有我想的那麼佔空間。
      我是畜牧系畢業的沒錯﹐ 以前天天與豬為伍﹐ 很了解它們 ﹕P
      我也怕抗生素荷爾蒙這個那個精的﹐ 所以才不惜買了有機豬嘛﹐ 不然其實這裡的中國韓國超市可以買得到不少內臟。

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  14. So, 瘦肉精 is in beef and pork in 美國 because it is allowed?
    OMG, what do I do now ... ? I cannot raise my own pigs and cows
    ... :(

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    1. yes, it's allowed here. mainly b/c internal organs are the main location for 瘦肉精 to residual and american don't eat them.
      buy from Brian. He doesn't use it! :)

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  15. Does Brian sell internal organs separately? I know organs are
    bad, but I still want to eat them once in a while ...

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    1. i think you can ask for it. for example, he can give you pork liver and tongue etc. that shouldn't be a problem.

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  16. Hi 茅茅,

    I have been wanting to write you and tell you how much I enjoy reading your blog very much and am
    very jealous of your beautiful kitchen and your organic farm in the basement:) I live in Rockville
    surrounded by Kam Sam, H Mart and all Asian grocery stores and have never thought about buying a
    whole cow/pig (that seems so Midwest to meXD...cause my husband is from Indiana and his parents
    bought a whole cow when he was little and it took a year to finish that cow with family of 7)

    I want to thank you for sharing this amazing farm with us. I am pregnant with my second one and due
    in July. I have been thinking to visit the farm and talk to Brian about buying some stuff for 坐月子. I
    think it's perfect timing for me that you share this farm with us. Thanks again!

    Jackie

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    1. Wow, I really didn't know how small this world is. There are already two of you who are reading my blog live near me!!!
      I am really glad that my blog is useful for someone other than myself. Brian is a very nice guy. Don't forget to tell him that Jean says hello. I remember when I was 坐月子, I drank 9 dozens of rice wine in 3 weeks. ^^

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  17. Hi Jean,

    There sure are lots of Taiwanese/Asian live in this area. I will definitely let Brian know that you are his
    #1 customer that have been promoting his business with people you haven't even met/knownXD I have
    a question about pork you bought from Brian. Did you specifically ask him to keep organs for you when
    you bought the whole cow? I am thinking to buy a half or just a quarter and wonder if I can ask him to
    sell me certain parts of organs (like lots of liver for 坐月子) or maybe he can just give them for free?

    About rice wine, that's the next thing I need to stock up too! My cousin who just had a baby bought
    some Taiwanese 紅標 rice wine no salt and it cost triple than the regual 紅標. I don't really understand
    why it's better without salt. Do you have any idea or recommendation? Once again, thanks a lot for
    your help! Nice to know you and your blog IS very helpful!

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    1. Hi Jackie,
      I would ask Brian directly about how he is going to charge for organs of cow. I didn't buy cow organs, just pig ones. He gave me a box of organs and only charge me $20 for handling fee. But pig 'jaw' is not free. liver, feet, ears, tongue, other internal organs are all in that $20 box. if you want bones, you need to ask him since i didn't buy bone from him this time. but a friend of mine got cow bone from him for free i think. If you buy 1/4 cow, chances are that you will get 'little' of each part. So i will go up to 1/2 cow at least. Write down a list of things you want and email him(bschiner@aol.com), ask him which are free and which are not. Also specify you want everything 'raw/plain/unprocessed' otherwise they might process your meat first. For example, 五花肉becomes bacon, ham will be smoked. ground pork might be stuffed and seasoned sausage.
      About rice wine, I didn't spend money buying super expensive taiwanese 紅標﹐ I bought japanese rice wine 月桂冠instead. don't remember the price for it anymore. but if you know someone lives in virginia, you can buy dozens of 月桂冠 online and have them ship to your firend house. It's illegal

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  18. Oops! I mean pig...not cow. $20 for all organs sounds a pretty good deal. I will definitely talk to Brian
    when I am ready to make a purchase. Thanks a lot for your help, Jean!

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  19. 豬肚很容易處理喔 只要把豬肚去油 剪開 每次使用半碗鹽 仔細搓洗3次 豬肚黏液洗去之後 用蔥薑加一些
    酒燒開的水川燙3分鐘就可以了 不腥 不臭喔

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    1. 這麼簡單喔﹐ 太謝謝了﹐ 下次我鼓起勇氣來試試﹗ ﹕P

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  20. 我以前也是怕豬肚會臭 一直都不敢買 直到知道這個方法後 我就常買豬肚 做四神湯 酸菜湯 佛跳牆 都很
    好用 希望你們也喜歡

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    1. 真是太好了﹐ 謝謝﹗﹗﹗

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  21. Does 瘦肉精 stay in all organs or just livers? Thanks!

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    1. mainly liver. the poor liver...

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  22. 茅茅您好,
    我從周老師的部落格連過來的,您的格子很有趣!
    原來生腸不是輸卵管而是子宮啊!今天看到正牌畜牧系的詳解,真是有如醍醐灌頂啊!那這
    件事我誤解了好多年了呢!
    然後看到您有很多實用工具,讓我也很想跟著敗,例如電動刀、麵條架。
    買一隻豬這檔事,如果能讓我找到有機豬,我也會這麼做。

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    1. ^^﹐ 很高興你覺得我的格子有用﹗ 有空常來坐﹗

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  23. 茅寶,你太強了,竟然扛一頭豬回家。我後來也在華人超市找到了生腸和
    嘴邊肉。朋友和老公都說生腸很好吃,沒怪味,但是嘴邊肉有肉騷味。
    我沒看到在賣肝連,好想吃溜。不知道肝連的英文叫什麽?
    你口不扣以蒞臨寒舍指教一下?謝謝!
    http://lindawu122470.pixnet.net/blog/post/47488266

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    1. 子宮是平滑肌﹐ 嘴邊肉屬骨胳肌﹐ 騷味會重﹐ 而且可能是公的嘴邊肉 ﹕) 大部分市面上看到的都是處女豬﹐ 你的照片就是女豬的子宮沒錯﹗ Diaphragm就是橫隔膜﹐ 是一片薄膜旁邊一圈管狀的肌肉﹐ 整缸把胸腔和腹腔分開﹐ 肝連就是那圈肌肉, 如果你能夠在超級市場找到我會覺得是奇跡﹗ ﹕P 你這篇非常精彩﹐ 謝謝分享﹗

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  24. Hello 寶村, I live in Phoenix and also found a place to buy organic pigs recently. This farm they raise their own pigs and has a slaughter business to butcher their own pigs and even own a store front in the town where people can go to buy their meat. After reading your experience, I would like to ask them if they can cut the 干連肉for me. Can you help me how to describe it in English? Sahll I say it is a cylinder shape of meat attached to the diaphragm which seperates the heart, lung from the liver and stomach? How do you say 胸腔和腹腔? Thank you so much for your help! I am glad to find your blog and just so amazed your culinary skill and dedication which is a huge inspiration!

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    1. https://www.whitman.edu/academics/departments-and-programs/biology/virtual-pig/respiratory-system/diaphragm
      You may want to bring this picture in your phone with you.
      It's a ring-shaped muscle around diaphragm which separates the chest cavity from the abdominal cavity.
      謝謝你的鼓勵﹗Good luck!

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    2. 謝謝寶村的指點, I showed both pictures - one from your blog and another one from the the above website you mentioned, plus your description to the lady at the meat shop. She will ask her butcher and also the inspector about it. Hope they can do it.

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